Icelandic Volcano Causing the Travel Snarl

Here are some great pics of the Icelandic volcano that disrupted my travel plans and those of millions of others around the world. Is the criticism valid that the EU over-reacted in shutting down airspace for so long over such a wide area?

They did the right thing for safety, but waited too long to reevaluate the situation.

Fortunately, my delay was only two days in Yerevan, Armenia before an alternate route home via Moscow rather than Paris. Thanks to Air France for the efficient people in their Yerevan office!!

Yerevan, Armenia April 10—12
On Saturday we visited the robust art market in a Yerevan park. The art and sculpture here is very good and many prolific artists seem to eke out a living at it. Many large sculptures are located in the city and in places where you’d never expect them. Very little graffiti is present and the people seem to respect what little they have. Several dozen painters set up their work in a park near the opera house every Saturday in good weather.
Cell phones and cigarettes are everywhere. Smoking is very prevalent and everyone, it seems, has a cell phone.
Vahan has cousins everywhere! On Saturday we met Rosa and her friend and later in the day, Mariam and her sister joined us for dinner at a nice restaurant downtown. We drove them home to their apartment where they share a room. Mariam’s older sister, Haykuhi, is studying to be a physician and Mariam is also in university studying tourist and hotel commerce and management. Both speak excellent English ( as well as Russian and Armenian) and are beautiful young women.
On Sunday we attended part of a service at the Armenian Apostolic ‘mother church’ a sprawling complex of church, school and residences for aspiring priests. The people stand in the church with only a few seats near the altar for dignitaries and elderly people. The celebrants come down from the altar in a procession among the people who offer gifts and obeisance to the various banners and paraphernalia carried by the priests in rich robes.
In older times as part of the services, lambs were brought and slaughtered with the obvious significance of Jesus’ giving his life for the people. That’s not done often, if at all now. The church grounds are populated with stone crosses called khachkars (http://www.armenianheritage.com/rescross.htm). These intricately carved stone crosses are found throughout Armenia some 12 centuries old. Armenia was the first country/people to embrace Christianity in 301 A.D. and has been oppressed by Turks and others every since the rise of Islam a few centuries later.
We then stopped at an old pagan/ then Christian temple, considered an architectural wonder in its day, rebuilt continually after earthquakes and Arab destruction since the Roman times. It was thought to be the inspiration for the great dome of Sophia.
We then visited the Armenian Genocide Memorial, a very moving experience. There’s a museum underground and a spire, eternal flame and very much a hallowed place in memory of the 1.5 million Armenians slaughtered, starved and otherwise destroyed by the Turks in their villages in what was western Armenia and is now Turkey. In addition to the killings, a half million were displaced to what is now the present Armenia and elsewhere. This genocide began in about 1895 but reached its peak in 1914-1915 and following the end of WWI.
Next we traveled to Garni, the site of the only Hellenic temple remaining in the Caucasus region, then on to Geghard a very old monastery and church, mostly carved out of the mountain rock face. This is such an ancient place. When traveling in Europe, one visits Roman, some Etruscan, much Renaissance and other earlier tims, but this is truly and ancient land.
Early in Armenia’s history its dominance spread to the Mediterranean Sea just north of Jerusalem all the way east to the Caspian Sea. Now they have no coastline and the borders with Turkey and Azerbaijan are closed. Their major abutting trading partners seem to be Russia, Georgia and Iran.
Last night for dinner we visited yet another cousin living in Yerevan for a full Armenian meal. Their son recently married and the four live in the same home., very nicely furnished and loads of food!
Today is rainy and cold, so we are not traveling. I’m resting up a bit and Vahan is visiting a museum.

Yerevan, Armenia April 10—12, 2010


On Saturday we visited the robust art market in a Yerevan park. The art and sculpture here is very good and many prolific artists seem to eke out a living at it. Many large sculptures are located in the city and in places where you’d never expect them. Very little graffiti is present and the people seem to respect what little they have. Several dozen painters set up their work in a park near the opera house every Saturday in good weather.
Cell phones and cigarettes are everywhere. Smoking is very prevalent and everyone, it seems, has a cell phone.
Vahan has cousins everywhere! On Saturday we met Rosa and her friend and later in the day, Mariam and her sister joined us for dinner at a nice restaurant downtown. We drove them home to their apartment where they share a room. Mariam’s older sister, Haykuhi, is studying to be a physician and Mariam is also in university studying tourist and hotel commerce and management. Both speak excellent English ( as well as Russian and Armenian) and are beautiful young women.
On Sunday we attended part of a service at the Armenian Apostolic ‘mother church’ a sprawling complex of church, school and residences for aspiring priests. The people stand in the church with only a few seats near the altar for dignitaries and elderly people. The celebrants come down from the altar in a procession among the people who offer gifts and obeisance to the various banners and paraphernalia carried by the priests in rich robes.
In older times as part of the services, lambs were brought and slaughtered with the obvious significance of Jesus’ giving his life for the people. That’s not done often, if at all now. The church grounds are populated with stone crosses called khachkars (http://www.armenianheritage.com/rescross.htm). These intricately carved stone crosses are found throughout Armenia some 12 centuries old. Armenia was the first country/people to embrace Christianity in 301 A.D. and has been oppressed by Turks and others every since the rise of Islam a few centuries later.
We then stopped at an old pagan/ then Christian temple, considered an architectural wonder in its day, rebuilt continually after earthquakes and Arab destruction since the Roman times. It was thought to be the inspiration for the great dome of Sophia.
We then visited the Armenian Genocide Memorial, a very moving experience. There’s a museum underground and a spire, eternal flame and very much a hallowed place in memory of the 1.5 million Armenians slaughtered, starved and otherwise destroyed by the Turks in their villages in what was western Armenia and is now Turkey. In addition to the killings, a half million were displaced to what is now the present Armenia and elsewhere. This genocide began in about 1895 but reached its peak in 1914-1915 and following the end of WWI.
Next we traveled to Garni, the site of the only Hellenic temple remaining in the Caucasus region, then on to Geghard a very old monastery and church, mostly carved out of the mountain rock face. This is such an ancient place. When traveling in Europe, one visits Roman, some Etruscan, much Renaissance and other earlier tims, but this is truly and ancient land.
Early in Armenia’s history its dominance spread to the Mediterranean Sea just north of Jerusalem all the way east to the Caspian Sea. Now they have no coastline and the borders with Turkey and Azerbaijan are closed. Their major abutting trading partners seem to be Russia, Georgia and Iran.
Last night for dinner we visited yet another cousin living in Yerevan for a full Armenian meal. Their son recently married and the four live in the same home., very nicely furnished and loads of food!
Today is rainy and cold, so we are not traveling. I’m resting up a bit and Vahan is visiting a museum.

April 10-12 Yerevan Armenia

Yerevan, Armenia April 10—12
On Saturday we visited the robust art market in a Yerevan park. The art and sculpture here is very good and many prolific artists seem to eke out a living at it. Many large sculptures are located in the city and in places where you’d never expect them. Very little graffiti is present and the people seem to respect what little they have. Several dozen painters set up their work in a park near the opera house every Saturday in good weather.
Cell phones and cigarettes are everywhere. Smoking is very prevalent and everyone, it seems, has a cell phone.
Vahan has cousins everywhere! On Saturday we met Rosa and her friend and later in the day, Mariam and her sister joined us for dinner at a nice restaurant downtown. We drove them home to their apartment where they share a room. Mariam’s older sister, Haykuhi, is studying to be a physician and Mariam is also in university studying tourist and hotel commerce and management. Both speak excellent English ( as well as Russian and Armenian) and are beautiful young women.
On Sunday we attended part of a service at the Armenian Apostolic ‘mother church’ a sprawling complex of church, school and residences for aspiring priests. The people stand in the church with only a few seats near the altar for dignitaries and elderly people. The celebrants come down from the altar in a procession among the people who offer gifts and obeisance to the various banners and paraphernalia carried by the priests in rich robes.
In older times as part of the services, lambs were brought and slaughtered with the obvious significance of Jesus’ giving his life for the people. That’s not done often, if at all now. The church grounds are populated with stone crosses called khachkars (http://www.armenianheritage.com/rescross.htm). These intricately carved stone crosses are found throughout Armenia some 12 centuries old. Armenia was the first country/people to embrace Christianity in 301 A.D. and has been oppressed by Turks and others every since the rise of Islam a few centuries later.
We then stopped at an old pagan/ then Christian temple, considered an architectural wonder in its day, rebuilt continually after earthquakes and Arab destruction since the Roman times. It was thought to be the inspiration for the great dome of Sophia.
We then visited the Armenian Genocide Memorial, a very moving experience. There’s a museum underground and a spire, eternal flame and very much a hallowed place in memory of the 1.5 million Armenians slaughtered, starved and otherwise destroyed by the Turks in their villages in what was western Armenia and is now Turkey. In addition to the killings, a half million were displaced to what is now the present Armenia and elsewhere. This genocide began in about 1895 but reached its peak in 1914-1915 and following the end of WWI.
Next we traveled to Garni, the site of the only Hellenic temple remaining in the Caucasus region, then on to Geghard a very old monastery and church, mostly carved out of the mountain rock face. This is such an ancient place. When traveling in Europe, one visits Roman, some Etruscan, much Renaissance and other earlier tims, but this is truly and ancient land.
Early in Armenia’s history its dominance spread to the Mediterranean Sea just north of Jerusalem all the way east to the Caspian Sea. Now they have no coastline and the borders with Turkey and Azerbaijan are closed. Their major abutting trading partners seem to be Russia, Georgia and Iran.
Last night for dinner we visited yet another cousin living in Yerevan for a full Armenian meal. Their son recently married and the four live in the same home., very nicely furnished and loads of food!
Today is rainy and cold, so we are not traveling. I’m resting up a bit and Vahan is visiting a museum.

Yerevan Armenia April 10-12

Yerevan, Armenia April 10—12


On Saturday we visited the robust art market in a Yerevan park. The art and sculpture here is very good and many prolific artists seem to eke out a living at it. Many large sculptures are located in the city and in places where you’d never expect them. Very little graffiti is present and the people seem to respect what little they have. Several dozen painters set up their work in a park near the opera house every Saturday in good weather.

Cell phones and cigarettes are everywhere. Smoking is very prevalent and everyone, it seems, has a cell phone.

Vahan has cousins everywhere! On Saturday we met Rosa and her friend and later in the day, Mariam and her sister joined us for dinner at a nice restaurant downtown. We drove them home to their apartment where they share a room. Mariam’s older sister, Haykuhi, is studying to be a physician and Mariam is also in university studying tourist and hotel commerce and management. Both speak excellent English ( as well as Russian and Armenian) and are beautiful young women.

On Sunday we attended part of a service at the Armenian Apostolic ‘mother church’ a sprawling complex of church, school and residences for aspiring priests. The people stand in the church with only a few seats near the altar for dignitaries and elderly people. The celebrants come down from the altar in a procession among the people who offer gifts and obeisance to the various banners and paraphernalia carried by the priests in rich robes.

In older times as part of the services, lambs were brought and slaughtered with the obvious significance of Jesus’ giving his life for the people. That’s not done often, if at all now. The church grounds are populated with stone crosses called khachkars (http://www.armenianheritage.com/rescross.htm). These intricately carved stone crosses are found throughout Armenia some 12 centuries old. Armenia was the first country/people to embrace Christianity in 301 A.D. and has been oppressed by Turks and others every since the rise of Islam a few centuries later.

We then stopped at an old pagan/ then Christian temple, considered an architectural wonder in its day, rebuilt continually after earthquakes and Arab destruction since the Roman times. It was thought to be the inspiration for the great dome of Sophia.

We then visited the Armenian Genocide Memorial, a very moving experience. There’s a museum underground and a spire, eternal flame and very much a hallowed place in memory of the 1.5 million Armenians slaughtered, starved and otherwise destroyed by the Turks in their villages in what was western Armenia and is now Turkey. In addition to the killings, a half million were displaced to what is now the present Armenia and elsewhere. This genocide began in about 1895 but reached its peak in 1914-1915 and following the end of WWI.

Next we traveled to Garni, the site of the only Hellenic temple remaining in the Caucasus region, then on to Geghard a very old monastery and church, mostly carved out of the mountain rock face. This is such an ancient place. When traveling in Europe, one visits Roman, some Etruscan, much Renaissance and other earlier tims, but this is truly and ancient land.
Early in Armenia’s history its dominance spread to the Mediterranean Sea just north of Jerusalem all the way east to the Caspian Sea. Now they have no coastline and the borders with Turkey and Azerbaijan are closed. Their major abutting trading partners seem to be Russia, Georgia and Iran.
Last night for dinner we visited yet another cousin living in Yerevan for a full Armenian meal. Their son recently married and the four live in the same home., very nicely furnished and loads of food!

Today is rainy and cold, so we are not traveling. I’m resting up a bit and Vahan is visiting a museum.

Dubai, UAE April 6-8

Have been in Dubai since Tuesday. This city/Emirate is surreal! You have to see the extent of development and construction to believe it. The Great Recession seems to have slowed some construction, but much activity is still obvious. Took the Big Bus tour around the city and it was a great way to see all areas. Finished up with a dinner at a local (not hotel) restaurant. Can't say I'm crazy about the cuisine, but I have been nursing a topsy-turvy stomach since Paris...that may have been an influence.

The construction and buildings are all high quality with lots of marble and granite. Not too many tourists...the GR must be affecting their travel, too.

Visited the various souks (markets) along Dubai Creek just a short walk from the Arabian Courtyard Hotel. There are textile, gold, spice and general shops of all varieties run by all nationalities. Surely a crossroads of commerce.

Dozens of water taxis (abras) criss-cross the Creek for $0.33. Just hop on, sit down and flip the boatmen a 1 dhiram coin!

Weather is very comfortable, always bright sunshine and lots of traffic. People are all quite friendly and very courteous. The whole city is spic-n'-span clean. I've not been in a cleaner city.

Stopped at the largest shopping mall, Dubai Mall, in the mid-East while on the bus tour. The top names in the world have stores here...1450 of them! The place is enormous with four levels of shops, 22 movie screens, etc., etc

Well, enough of the extravagance of Dubai. Certainly, the leaders intend to make this the commerce, banking, financial, and tourism center of the region. They have had recent financial troubles, which has slowed the development, but as long as the oil continues to be pumped, they can feed this explosive mecca.

This evening, we'll travel in the desert for a meal at an oasis and watch the sunset.

Paris April 4, 2010

Today, Easter Sunday, again was cold and windy. After a really nice meal at a French restaurant last night about a five minute walk from our hotel, we slept well and perhaps a bit too long. After a petit dejeuner we decide to walk to the Louvre, about 20 minutes from the hotel. Without exaggerating the line waiting to enter was at least 1/2 mile long!

Instead we hopped a open-to-the sky tour bus with a day pass that allowed us to ride most of the city. It was freezing cold and windy up top, so we decided to get off at the Eiffel Tower. Vahan was feeling sickly so he decided to walk back to the hotel from Hotel des Invalides, the next stop on the route.

I got off a couple of stops later and walked to the Grand and Petit Palais, then to the Place Concorde and on to Madeline. I hopped on the bus again and rode to Notre Dame. Lots of people there, too. The cold and showery weather did not dismay the walking Parisiens and the many tourists. I decided not to hop the bus again because I wanted to be back at the hotel by about 5:00 pm.

The streets are all well marked and the handy maps make it easy to find the way. I figured it about an hour walk back to the hotel so set out because the sun had begun to break through. I wound my way back via the Latin quarter through narrow alleys jammed with people and eateries. Boulevard St. Germain, Rue du Bac, Rue Varenne and back to Rue Vaneau by 5:00.

Vahan’s feeling a bit better so we’ll probably eat again at the same restaurant, Le Petit Lutetia Bar/ Brasserie Restaurant (107 Rue de Sevres) as last night.

--Just returned from supper at same place. Really good food. Vahan had duck confit and I had a sausage and bean creation followed by creme brulee....yum!

We'll get up early tomorrow to get in line early at the Louvre...hopefully!

We leave tomorrow night at 11:00 pm for Dubai.

Paris!!

All flights OK and on time. Took train from Charles Degaulle to Paris then metro to hotel. Very efficient and smooth. Stopped for breakfast in Montparnasse, then walked to hotel. D'orsay Museum in the afternoon which is a 10minute walk from hotel. Hotel DeSuede is a nice quiet hotel centrally located.

After a flight-catch-up snooze, we took a cab to Champs Eleysses and walked around the Arc De Triomphe where a small military ceremony was underway, whether because it was Good Friday or something they do every Friday?

Then a short walk to the Lido, only 5 minutes from the Arc for dinner and the extravaganza show. The place was packed, the food so-so, but the show was really extraordinary,including marvelous costuming, dancing and staging. The show includes skating, a juggler, a clown and an acrobat. The show was well worth the price and a tourist attraction not to be missed.

4/3
Took Metro north to a flea market north of Sacre Coeur. Spent morning at flea/antique/art market. This is huge! Mixed ethnic groups in this neighborhood. Walked south to Sacre Coeur, visited the basilica. Lots of people in Montmarte even with the occasional rain showers. From there we walked to Galleries Lafayette...a massive and beautiful indoor shopping galleria of 6 or more floors with a beautiful domed roof.

Walked to opera house and the sun finally came out.

Metro back to hotel and the last 1/2 mile we walked in the rain again. April showers!!

My feet hurt!!

We'll eat close to the hotel tonight in an Italian restaurant just down the street.